1. Outline the three stages in the formation of a wave.
First the wind forms ripples, then these form wavelets and finally waves. As the waves travel towards the coast they take the energy from the wind with them. When the waves enter shallow water the energy in the waves starts to interact with the sea floor
2. What is the fetch? Why is it an important factor in determining the size and speed of a wave?
The fetch is the distance the wind travels over the ocean to form a wave. The size and speed of the waves is influenced by the strength of the wind and the length of the fetch.
3. How do waves in the open ocean differ from waves closer to the shore?
Waves that are closer to the shore have a slower wave speed as a wave further from the shore.
4. Draw an annotated diagram showing wavelength and wave height.
5. Draw and annotated diagram explaining how a wave breaks.
6. Explain the difference between the three different types of waves
Spilling waves break from the shore on beaches with gentle slopes.
Plunging waves break on beaches where the slope is moderately steep
Surging waves occur on very steep beaches
7. Explain the difference between a wind swell and a ground swell
A wind swell is marked by a short wavelength and high frequency of waves hitting the coast while a ground swell forms when waves have travelled across a greater distance of ocean before hitting the coast.
8. Interpret the synoptic charts that tracked Tropical Cyclone Wati in the Coral Sea from 24-28 March 2006
Strong winds caused by Topical Cyclone Wati and the associated low pressure system formed a huge ground swell that hit Sydney
9. A tourist to Australia has asked you to advise them on the best areas for swimming at local beaches. Write a letter that explains to them the three types of waves and how to identify them.
Dear Tourist,
There are three different types of waves you need to look out for. The first type of wave is called spilling waves. These are great for body surfing as the waves are very gently. Personally I would prefer this type of wave. The second type of wave is called Plunging waves. These are great for experience suffers because of the tubes they form. The last type of wave is called surging waves. These waves roll up the steep face rather than breaking over it. I would suggest not to go to a beach with these waves.
10. Imagine you are the life saver on duty at busy Sydney beach during a large cyclone swell. Write an account of the day’s events.
Day 1 of the cyclone swell: the storm is absolutely terrible. It incredibly winding and the waves look dangerous. Luckily the beach is closed otherwise someone may get injured. It is presumed that this cyclone swell will end tomorrow
Day 2: the storm has stopped leaving beautiful sunning weather.
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