Quiz 2
Aeolian – Characterized by a sighing or moaning sound as if produced by the wind.
Spinifex – genus of perennial coastal grasses. They are one of the most common plants that grow in sand dunes along the coasts
Constructive waves – a low height, low frequency wave where the net movement of material is up the beach as the swash is stronger than the backwash.
Corrasion – The wave action moves rock and other material across the rock shelf and wears away the rock in an abrasive fashion.
Corrosion – In rocks along the coast there are minerals like iron. When waves break they wet the rocks. As the rock dries the salt in the sea water crystallises and acts on the minerals in the rock to erode material.
Refraction – When waves bend due to headlands and the contours of the ocean floor
Deposition – process by which material is added to a landform or land mass.
Destructive waves – found on steep beaches, are steeply breaking and mainly responsible for coastal erosion. Their backwash is much stronger than their swash.
Erosion – The process of eroding or being eroded by wind, water, or other natural agents
Hydraulic action – form of erosion caused by the force of moving water currents rushing into a crack in the rockface.
Longshore drift – The movement of material along a coast by waves that approach at an angle to the shore but recede directly away from it
Wednesday, October 26, 2011
7.3 Questions
7.3 Question
1. Name the three key geographical processes that shape the coastal environment.
The three key geographical processes that shape the coastal environment are erosion, transportation and deposition.
2. What is wave refraction and why does it occur?
Wave refraction causes the wave energy to be concentrated in particular areas and less intense in others. It occurs because wave energy is distributed evenly along the entire wave.
3. Use a diagram to explain how wave refection leads to the uneven distribution of wave energy along the coastline.
4. Name the most common erosional landforms found along the coastline.
The most common erosion landforms found along the coastline are around headlands.
5. Describe the three wave action processes that shape headlands.
The three wave action processes are hydraulic action, corrosion and corrosion
6. Explain the operation of the erosion-accretion cycle.
7. Name the three forces that shape depositional landforms on beaches
The three forces are wind, waves and prevailing ocean currents
8. Name the most common depositional landforms found along the coastline.
The most common depositional landform is beaches
9. Explain the process that forms coastal dunes. What role does vegetation play in their formation?
Coastal dunes are formed by the action of the wind. Once sand is deposited on the beach it is then subject to wind transportation. The wind blows the sand landward, which is then trapped by low-lying vegetation like coastal spinifex. The fore dune is a store of sand. It may be eroded away or it may continue to increase the size depending on wave and wind action.
10. Describe the process of longshore drift. What role does this process play in transporting sand along the coast?
Waves usually approach the coast at an angle. Once the waves break they start to lose their energy. As the swash travels up the beach it slows until the force of gravity causes it to travel directly back towards the ocean. The water will then be hit by the next wave and the process begins again.
11.
12. What role does the fordune play in protecting coastal areas?
The fordune provides a buffer zone for the fragile dune vegetation located on the hind dunes
13. a) On the Great Ocean Road in Victoria
b) Because it is up to 20 million years old
c) They were created by the sea gradually eroding the soft limestone cliffs
d) It collapsed
e) No, because you cannot stop constant water hitting rocks
14. Describe the twelve apostles
The twelve apostles are up to 20 million years old. They were created by the sea gradually eroding the soft limestone cliffs. Eventually, theses rocks will collapse as the water will be constantly eroding the rock.
15.
The local council has decided to buy back residential property located on a headland and a neighboring fordune that is subject to severe erosion. Local residents who own the property strongly disagree with the council as they believe it will deprive them of their spectacular views, relaxed lifestyle and valuable property. The council ignored the resident’s opinions and forced the residents to sell it. On 29th October 2011, the council bought the fordune. The council is trying is now trying recover the fordune from eroding and doing so successfully. Though, the residents aren’t happy.
1. Name the three key geographical processes that shape the coastal environment.
The three key geographical processes that shape the coastal environment are erosion, transportation and deposition.
2. What is wave refraction and why does it occur?
Wave refraction causes the wave energy to be concentrated in particular areas and less intense in others. It occurs because wave energy is distributed evenly along the entire wave.
3. Use a diagram to explain how wave refection leads to the uneven distribution of wave energy along the coastline.
4. Name the most common erosional landforms found along the coastline.
The most common erosion landforms found along the coastline are around headlands.
5. Describe the three wave action processes that shape headlands.
The three wave action processes are hydraulic action, corrosion and corrosion
6. Explain the operation of the erosion-accretion cycle.
7. Name the three forces that shape depositional landforms on beaches
The three forces are wind, waves and prevailing ocean currents
8. Name the most common depositional landforms found along the coastline.
The most common depositional landform is beaches
9. Explain the process that forms coastal dunes. What role does vegetation play in their formation?
Coastal dunes are formed by the action of the wind. Once sand is deposited on the beach it is then subject to wind transportation. The wind blows the sand landward, which is then trapped by low-lying vegetation like coastal spinifex. The fore dune is a store of sand. It may be eroded away or it may continue to increase the size depending on wave and wind action.
10. Describe the process of longshore drift. What role does this process play in transporting sand along the coast?
Waves usually approach the coast at an angle. Once the waves break they start to lose their energy. As the swash travels up the beach it slows until the force of gravity causes it to travel directly back towards the ocean. The water will then be hit by the next wave and the process begins again.
11.
12. What role does the fordune play in protecting coastal areas?
The fordune provides a buffer zone for the fragile dune vegetation located on the hind dunes
13. a) On the Great Ocean Road in Victoria
b) Because it is up to 20 million years old
c) They were created by the sea gradually eroding the soft limestone cliffs
d) It collapsed
e) No, because you cannot stop constant water hitting rocks
14. Describe the twelve apostles
The twelve apostles are up to 20 million years old. They were created by the sea gradually eroding the soft limestone cliffs. Eventually, theses rocks will collapse as the water will be constantly eroding the rock.
15.
The local council has decided to buy back residential property located on a headland and a neighboring fordune that is subject to severe erosion. Local residents who own the property strongly disagree with the council as they believe it will deprive them of their spectacular views, relaxed lifestyle and valuable property. The council ignored the resident’s opinions and forced the residents to sell it. On 29th October 2011, the council bought the fordune. The council is trying is now trying recover the fordune from eroding and doing so successfully. Though, the residents aren’t happy.
Sunday, October 23, 2011
Cortes Bank
Cortes Bank is a dangerously shallow chain of underwater mountains in the Pacific Ocean. It is located about 188 kilometers west of Point Loma San Diego, USA, and about 82 kilometers south-west of San Clemente Island. It is in the middle of the ocean. Cortes Bank was originally a California channel island 10,000 years ago but when the Ice Age came, it lowered the sea level by 400 feet. The end result was Cortes Bank.
There is a model of the underground mountain at Cortes Bank:
Here is a bird's eye view of Cortes Bank:
This spot is capable of producing some amazing waves due to its location. Cortes Bank reaches a peak of about 30 kilometers long and rises from the ocean floor from about 1kilometer down. Some of the peaks come to just 1-2 meters below the surface at Bishop Rock, depending on the tides. The peaks are a hazard to large ships. Because it is located so far off the coast, there is really no limit to the amount of swell that can pass by this spot.The waves at Cortes Bank signal danger on the underwater rocks and are so big they show up on radar.
The location of Cortes Bank is shown below:
Bishop Rock, which is one of the jagged peaks in the underwater chain, rises to within 1 to 2 meters of the surface. This place has been known to ocean-going ship captains and fishermen for years.
Here is an example of how big the waves at Cortes Bank get:
To get the biggest waves at Cortes Bank, you need perfect conditions. Cortes Bank requires light winds, low tides and big storm swells from the northwest in order to reach its full potential. This surf spot is also a place where rough sea storms take place.
These need to happen all at the same time. This happened on 19th January 2001, where California's surfers went to test their skills against the biggest wave every ridden. These waves were traveling so fast that the surfers couldn't catch up to the wave paddling, instead they had to get there by a jet skier who towed them with a rope until they were moving fast enough to engage the wave. Surfers measure the waves from the back and the biggest wave of the day was 30 feet according to their measurements. A watcher on the other side, said he saw waves up to sixty feet tall.
This link to a video explains Cortes Bank in more detail:
http://www.surfline.com/surflinetv/how-it-works/how-it-works-cortes-bank_22567
Sunday, October 16, 2011
Defining Words 7.1,7.2
7.1
Breakwaters - A barrier built out into the sea to protect a coast or harbour from the force of waves.
Faecal coliform - aerobic bacteria found in the colon or faeces, often used as indicators of faecal contamination of water supplies.
Silting - A sedimentary material consisting of very fine particles intermediate in size between sand and clay.
Tidal Flushing - action of saltwater entering an estuary twice a day during the high tides.
Sea change - Sea Change is when people move from the city to start a new life by the sea
Urban stormwater – pure rainwater plus anything the rain carries along with it.
Dredging - Clean out the bed of (a harbor, river, or other area of water) by scooping out mud, weeds, and rubbish with a dredge.
Introduced plants – plants that come from difference countries
7.2
Ground swell - A large or extensive swell in the sea
Plunging waves – break on beaches where the slope is moderately steep.
Spilling waves – break far from the shore on beaches with gentle slopes
Surging waves – occur on very steep beaches. The waves roll up the steep face rather than breaking over it
Wind swell - waves generated by local winds
Wave height - The vertical distance between the trough and the crest of a wave
Wavelength - The distance between successive crests of a wave
Fetch - The distance traveled by wind or waves across open water
Surf - The mass or line of foam formed by waves breaking on a seashore or reef
Swash zone - an area of a beach where water washes up on shore after an incoming wave has broken.
Breakwaters - A barrier built out into the sea to protect a coast or harbour from the force of waves.
Faecal coliform - aerobic bacteria found in the colon or faeces, often used as indicators of faecal contamination of water supplies.
Silting - A sedimentary material consisting of very fine particles intermediate in size between sand and clay.
Tidal Flushing - action of saltwater entering an estuary twice a day during the high tides.
Sea change - Sea Change is when people move from the city to start a new life by the sea
Urban stormwater – pure rainwater plus anything the rain carries along with it.
Dredging - Clean out the bed of (a harbor, river, or other area of water) by scooping out mud, weeds, and rubbish with a dredge.
Introduced plants – plants that come from difference countries
7.2
Ground swell - A large or extensive swell in the sea
Plunging waves – break on beaches where the slope is moderately steep.
Spilling waves – break far from the shore on beaches with gentle slopes
Surging waves – occur on very steep beaches. The waves roll up the steep face rather than breaking over it
Wind swell - waves generated by local winds
Wave height - The vertical distance between the trough and the crest of a wave
Wavelength - The distance between successive crests of a wave
Fetch - The distance traveled by wind or waves across open water
Surf - The mass or line of foam formed by waves breaking on a seashore or reef
Swash zone - an area of a beach where water washes up on shore after an incoming wave has broken.
Friday, October 14, 2011
7.2 questions
7.2 Questions
1. Outline the three stages in the formation of a wave.
First the wind forms ripples, then these form wavelets and finally waves. As the waves travel towards the coast they take the energy from the wind with them. When the waves enter shallow water the energy in the waves starts to interact with the sea floor
2. What is the fetch? Why is it an important factor in determining the size and speed of a wave?
The fetch is the distance the wind travels over the ocean to form a wave. The size and speed of the waves is influenced by the strength of the wind and the length of the fetch.
3. How do waves in the open ocean differ from waves closer to the shore?
Waves that are closer to the shore have a slower wave speed as a wave further from the shore.
4. Draw an annotated diagram showing wavelength and wave height.
5. Draw and annotated diagram explaining how a wave breaks.
6. Explain the difference between the three different types of waves
Spilling waves break from the shore on beaches with gentle slopes.
Plunging waves break on beaches where the slope is moderately steep
Surging waves occur on very steep beaches
7. Explain the difference between a wind swell and a ground swell
A wind swell is marked by a short wavelength and high frequency of waves hitting the coast while a ground swell forms when waves have travelled across a greater distance of ocean before hitting the coast.
8. Interpret the synoptic charts that tracked Tropical Cyclone Wati in the Coral Sea from 24-28 March 2006
Strong winds caused by Topical Cyclone Wati and the associated low pressure system formed a huge ground swell that hit Sydney
9. A tourist to Australia has asked you to advise them on the best areas for swimming at local beaches. Write a letter that explains to them the three types of waves and how to identify them.
Dear Tourist,
There are three different types of waves you need to look out for. The first type of wave is called spilling waves. These are great for body surfing as the waves are very gently. Personally I would prefer this type of wave. The second type of wave is called Plunging waves. These are great for experience suffers because of the tubes they form. The last type of wave is called surging waves. These waves roll up the steep face rather than breaking over it. I would suggest not to go to a beach with these waves.
10. Imagine you are the life saver on duty at busy Sydney beach during a large cyclone swell. Write an account of the day’s events.
Day 1 of the cyclone swell: the storm is absolutely terrible. It incredibly winding and the waves look dangerous. Luckily the beach is closed otherwise someone may get injured. It is presumed that this cyclone swell will end tomorrow
Day 2: the storm has stopped leaving beautiful sunning weather.
1. Outline the three stages in the formation of a wave.
First the wind forms ripples, then these form wavelets and finally waves. As the waves travel towards the coast they take the energy from the wind with them. When the waves enter shallow water the energy in the waves starts to interact with the sea floor
2. What is the fetch? Why is it an important factor in determining the size and speed of a wave?
The fetch is the distance the wind travels over the ocean to form a wave. The size and speed of the waves is influenced by the strength of the wind and the length of the fetch.
3. How do waves in the open ocean differ from waves closer to the shore?
Waves that are closer to the shore have a slower wave speed as a wave further from the shore.
4. Draw an annotated diagram showing wavelength and wave height.
5. Draw and annotated diagram explaining how a wave breaks.
6. Explain the difference between the three different types of waves
Spilling waves break from the shore on beaches with gentle slopes.
Plunging waves break on beaches where the slope is moderately steep
Surging waves occur on very steep beaches
7. Explain the difference between a wind swell and a ground swell
A wind swell is marked by a short wavelength and high frequency of waves hitting the coast while a ground swell forms when waves have travelled across a greater distance of ocean before hitting the coast.
8. Interpret the synoptic charts that tracked Tropical Cyclone Wati in the Coral Sea from 24-28 March 2006
Strong winds caused by Topical Cyclone Wati and the associated low pressure system formed a huge ground swell that hit Sydney
9. A tourist to Australia has asked you to advise them on the best areas for swimming at local beaches. Write a letter that explains to them the three types of waves and how to identify them.
Dear Tourist,
There are three different types of waves you need to look out for. The first type of wave is called spilling waves. These are great for body surfing as the waves are very gently. Personally I would prefer this type of wave. The second type of wave is called Plunging waves. These are great for experience suffers because of the tubes they form. The last type of wave is called surging waves. These waves roll up the steep face rather than breaking over it. I would suggest not to go to a beach with these waves.
10. Imagine you are the life saver on duty at busy Sydney beach during a large cyclone swell. Write an account of the day’s events.
Day 1 of the cyclone swell: the storm is absolutely terrible. It incredibly winding and the waves look dangerous. Luckily the beach is closed otherwise someone may get injured. It is presumed that this cyclone swell will end tomorrow
Day 2: the storm has stopped leaving beautiful sunning weather.
Thursday, October 13, 2011
7.1 Questions
7.1 Questions
1. Describe how the settlement pattern of Australia is related to issues in the coastal environment.
Some of the issues in the coastal environment caused by settlement pattern of Australia include pollution, tourism and recreational pressures, population growth, coastal rivers and lagoons, introduced plants, influencing decision-making and inappropriate development.
2. Why is the sustainable development of the coastline the aim of coastal management strategies?
All these issues has had a negative impact on the coastline therefore having a sustainable coastline means that it will improve these issues.
3. What trend has been labelled sea change?
The trend that has been labelled sea change is the process where overdevelopment and rapid growth of coastal areas occur due to the current Australian trend for people to move from large cities to smaller coastal town and villages where the lifestyle is more relaxed.
4. Describe one government response to sea change
Some town along the east coast of Australia have imposed residential caps
5. Select four of the geographical issues facing the coastal environment presented in this unit. For each issue identify the human actions that cause the issue
i. Pollution: the increase of urban development has led to an increase of pollution
ii. Population growth: overdevelopment and rapid growth of coastal areas
iii. Inappropriate development: a lot of inappropriate building has been built around the coastal environment mainly of the view.
iv. Tourism and Recreational Pressures: Humans increase the population during holidays placing pressure on the infrastructure and the environment surrounding the area.
6. What role do geographers play in developing management solutions to issues in coastal environments?
Geographers role in developing management solutions to issues in coastal environments is to find out what has changed now by referring to the past and how can it be improved in the future.
7.
B) The construction of these buildings is a great advantage for me. The beautiful view is absolutely stunning. I’ve been living here for about 5 years and so far I feel like a millionaire. The only problem about living here is that there will be an increase number of tourism in the holidays which can ruin your trip to the beach as there are too many people. Overall, I really enjoy living here and probably stay here till I die.
1. Describe how the settlement pattern of Australia is related to issues in the coastal environment.
Some of the issues in the coastal environment caused by settlement pattern of Australia include pollution, tourism and recreational pressures, population growth, coastal rivers and lagoons, introduced plants, influencing decision-making and inappropriate development.
2. Why is the sustainable development of the coastline the aim of coastal management strategies?
All these issues has had a negative impact on the coastline therefore having a sustainable coastline means that it will improve these issues.
3. What trend has been labelled sea change?
The trend that has been labelled sea change is the process where overdevelopment and rapid growth of coastal areas occur due to the current Australian trend for people to move from large cities to smaller coastal town and villages where the lifestyle is more relaxed.
4. Describe one government response to sea change
Some town along the east coast of Australia have imposed residential caps
5. Select four of the geographical issues facing the coastal environment presented in this unit. For each issue identify the human actions that cause the issue
i. Pollution: the increase of urban development has led to an increase of pollution
ii. Population growth: overdevelopment and rapid growth of coastal areas
iii. Inappropriate development: a lot of inappropriate building has been built around the coastal environment mainly of the view.
iv. Tourism and Recreational Pressures: Humans increase the population during holidays placing pressure on the infrastructure and the environment surrounding the area.
6. What role do geographers play in developing management solutions to issues in coastal environments?
Geographers role in developing management solutions to issues in coastal environments is to find out what has changed now by referring to the past and how can it be improved in the future.
7.
B) The construction of these buildings is a great advantage for me. The beautiful view is absolutely stunning. I’ve been living here for about 5 years and so far I feel like a millionaire. The only problem about living here is that there will be an increase number of tourism in the holidays which can ruin your trip to the beach as there are too many people. Overall, I really enjoy living here and probably stay here till I die.
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